Volcanic vista
Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort (Kailua-Kona, Big Island, HI)
GETAWAYS • Hawaii
The open-air Kona International Airport is breezy and calm, a gentle preview of what’s to come at Kona Village, Rosewood’s respectful revival of a Big Island legend. Once a fishing village at the edge of a black lava field, it became an off-the-grid resort frequented by the likes of Steve Jobs and Jim Morrison (who, legend has it, downed 21 mai tais in a single sitting) before being wiped out by a tsunami in 2011.
The property’s new incarnation honors its past with intention. Some returning guests book the same room they stayed in 40 years ago — and still place a coconut outside their door instead of a ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign, just like they used to. The Shipwreck Bar, a sailboat-turned-cocktail lounge, still anchors the beach, while the Talk Story Bar remains a nightly ritual for sunset drinks.
Spread over 81 acres, the 150 free-standing hale (traditional Hawaiian villas) feature thatched roofs, outdoor showers, and views of the ocean, lagoons, or lush gardens. The interiors blend the outdoors in, layering wood, linen, lava rock, and Hawaiian artwork in a barefoot, considered style. Despite the luxury, the mood is unmistakably laid-back.
The same could be said of the food there. Kona Village’s signature restaurant Moana is an exception to hotel dining clichés. Locals came in every night when we were there. Dishes are built around Big Island bounty, and favorites included miso kanpachi, kalbi-braised beef cheeks, and abalone with brown butter sabayon. Elsewhere on the property, Kahuwai Cookhouse, a toes-in-the-sand beach spot, specializes in open-fire cooking. Their zarandeado-style whole fish, slicked in chile salsas, reminded me of Contramar’s famed pescado a la talla — bold and messy.
While there are two pools on-site, we headed straight for the beach, where whales breach offshore and the sand is salt-and-pepper from crushed volcanic rock. There’s paddleboarding, snorkeling, and tennis, while the spa offers treatments with views of the Hualālai volcano. Bikes are the best way to roam the grounds, and for kids, there’s a full club with activities rooted in local culture.
The resort is powered entirely by solar and a reverse osmosis water treatment plant, and petroglyphs etched into lava have been preserved with reverence. Here, the island isn’t just a backdrop. It’s the main character. –Victoire Loup
→ Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort (Kailua-Kona, Big Island, HI) • 72-300 Maheawalu Dr • Rooms from $1091/night, Nov. weekend.