Unboxing match

Dining Yamamoto (SoMa)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Previously, SF’s boxed sushi game has left a bit to be desired, at least compared to the options on offer in New York and LA. No longer is that the case, though, with SoMa’s Dining Yamamoto as a fresh contender for your consideration.

The Vibe: Tucked away in a quiet stretch of SoMa, Dining Yamamoto launched as a takeout operation in April, firing up lunch and dinner service in recent weeks. The moody blue dining room is a simple box with long wooden tables and velvet benches, all with a view of chef Yukinori Yamamoto in the kitchen, wife Mikako and their kids pitching in.

The Food: Yamamoto is originally from Japan, having spent time working at restaurants in Osaka and Tsu before serving as a sushi master for the Michael Mina Group for a decade. For his first owner-and-operated restaurant, he’s focusing on affordable donburi between $27 and $45. My bowl (above) was a perfect balance of light hamachi, meaty bluefin, creamy uni, and salty ikura. Ordered as takeout, it comes with a teeny fish-shaped squeeze bottle, but if you sit down, your rice could still be warm — life is full of hard decisions. Either way, it comes with nori sheets on the side, for a fold-it-yourself handroll situation.

The Drink: No wine or beer as of yet, but a couple of shades of green tea, along with sparkling water.

The Verdict: For anyone who lives, works, or plays in SoMa or FiDi, this is a smart, easygoing spot to slide in for a lunch meeting or laidback date. But maybe more critically, I’d happily order one of Yamamoto’s beautiful boxes every single Friday night of my life, to enjoy while sitting cross-legged on the couch, contemplating the joy of this life’s all-too-easily attained pleasures. –Becky Duffett

→ Dining Yamamoto (SoMa) • 167 11th St • Tue-Fri 11a-2p, 5-9p, Sat 5-9p • Order.