RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Rooftop restaurant Cubita opened in June in the Mission spot last occupied by El Techo. Still under the ownership of Adriano Paganini and his Back of the House restaurant group, the new effort is fashioned as a Havana-inspired hideaway.
The Vibe: Slide through the door next to Lolinda and take the elevator all the way to the top. Designer Nathan Reed has amped up the color with pastel pink walls, jungle green leaves, and black-and-white checkerboard floors. A garland of fedoras hangs over the dining room, and a couple of street art-styled murals show a woman and a gorilla puffing on cigars.
The Food: Mission native and executive chef Juan Torres built a menu that nods to Cuba and the Caribbean. Early hits include local halibut ceviche, ropa vieja empanadas, yucca fries, and sweet plantains. Also of note: the Cubano made with housemade lechon, or an entree of fried rock cod with mojo sauce.
The Drink: The cocktail list swaps out margaritas for mojitos, daiquiris, and other Cuban classics, alongside original creations like the Havana Heat (rum, passionfruit, torched cinnamon stick) and Qué Bola (mezcal, pisco, pineapple). You could also plunge into a Jungle Bird Punch Bowl, designed for a party of four or more.
The Verdict: Cubita ably fills two voids: the one left by the closure of El Techo at this rooftop bar space above the fray of Mission Street and the other, a longstanding lack of good Cuban food in San Francisco. –Becky Duffett
→ Cubita (Mission) • 2516 Mission St • Mon-Thu 4-10p, Fri 4p-12a, Sat 11a-12a, Sun 11a-10p • Reserve.