The French Laundry

RESTAURANTS • Fine Dining Report

STILL STARCHED: On a recent visit, newly promoted chef Ara Jo and her team crafted what was perhaps the best meal I’ve ever had at The French Laundry. The cuisine felt more ambitious and playful than ever, yet still deeply rooted in culinary traditions, anchored by a distinct sense of place.

Among the early seafood canapés, Nashville hot fried lobster claws stood out. Later, salt-baked whole abalone from Santa Barbara, first presented tableside in its shell, stole the show. Served over a porridge made from Koshihikari rice, crowned with Regiis Ova Golden Reserve caviar, it was a dish of immense depth, finesse, and luxury.

Truffle service was another particular highlight of my first visit with Jo at the helm. While TFL’s classic housemade tagliatelle is always a treat, it couldn’t compete with the black truffle and “King Richard leek” Wellington, made invisible under a hefty downpour of Australian Black Winter truffles. The night ended with a cigar from the in-house humidor, enjoyed in the courtyard along with an extensive spirits list. –Lee Pitofsky

→ The French Laundry (Yountville, CA) • 6640 Washington St • 4-8p • Reserve.