Tavern on the hill

Palmer’s Tavern (Pacific Heights)

BARS & RESTAURANTS • First Round

The Skinny: Pac Heights mainstay Palmer’s Tavern reopened this fall after a two-year hiatus for extensive repairs following a damaging water line break. The old-fashioned aesthetic remains, thanks to owner Sam Fechheimer’s dedication to the tavern’s original vision and unwillingness to compromise on quality. For its big redux, the bar and gastropub brought in chef Matt Woods (previously of Gather and Scopo Divino) to freshen up the classic menu.

The Vibe: With its tufted leather banquettes, brass foot rails, and rich mahogany hues, Palmer’s is a meticulously preserved time capsule of old SF. Big game trophies still hang proudly above the bar, nestled among framed black-and-white photos from a different time. The tavern has long been a locals’ draw, with a roster of everyday regulars, local movers and shakers, and A-listers including Julia Roberts. Its strict no paparazzi rule, reminiscent of the Jeannette Etheredge era at Tosca Cafe, fosters a low-key vibe where everyone stays anonymous.

The Drink: With a drinks list three times the size of its food menu, Palmer’s reminds you that, first and foremost, it’s a bar. Cocktails feature classics (yes, even an espresso martini) and signature drinks; crowd favorites include the Sayulita, the house margarita with green chartreuse and habanero tincture, and Autumn in New York (whiskey, averna, clove-infused maple, bitters). There’s also an extensive selection of Scotch and spirits, plus a well-curated wine list offering a variety of styles. Beer and wine are available, as well as nonalcoholic options. Thanks to an expertly run bar staff, you can expect your drink order in five minutes or less, even on the busiest of nights.

The Food: Unsurprisingly for a tavern, snacks and sides are as much a draw as the entrees. Truffle fries, a crossover from the original menu, still deliver; deviled eggs pile on flavor via sweet candied bacon and tangy pickled pepper relish; and the caprese boasts heirloom tomatoes sliced razor thin, topped with creamy burrata and bright, zesty pesto. The spinach-artichoke dip (served warm) and caramelized onion dip (served cold) are great for sharing. For the mains, regulars need not fear — favorites like the schnitzel, steak au poivre, and extra-thick-and-juicy Palmer’s burger remain, while the wedge salad gets a refresh with buttermilk ranch and cornbread crumbles.

The Verdict: Already lively at 430p on a rainy Thursday and fully packed every night since its return, Palmer’s proves it’s just what the neighborhood needs: a welcome homecoming for a relative newcomer that fits right in with SF’s best old-school institutions. –Allison McCarthy

→ Palmer’s Tavern (Pacific Heights) • 2298 Fillmore St • Daily 4-10p • Reserve.

Photo: Kay Gehshan