RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Seafood-focused restaurant Maritime Boat Club made its debut this June in Union Square’s Palihotel, just a few months after companion spot Bar Maritime splashed open.
The Vibe: Both restaurants occupy the century-old digs of former occupant Burritt Room, with Boat Club behind a curtain in the “tavern” portion of the space. Both are designed to evoke classic San Francisco, with penny tiling, abundant dark wood moulding, and nautical-themed flourishes like replica boats between cushioned booths.
The Food: Chef Felix Santos honed his skills in the upscale kitchens of Quince, Sorrel, and Atelier Crenn. High-end treatments of vegetables — the likes of which you’d find in those restaurants — take center stage here as starter plates and sides. A crudité features market-fresh zucchini, tomatoes, heirloom string beans, summer squash, and figs, served with a subtle saffron-mussel emulsion dotting the plate. Braised and buttered leeks are touched lightly with horseradish. An expertly seasoned, almost chowder-like bowl of fresh corn and polenta with fresh grape tomatoes celebrates both the sweet and savory profiles of the grain.
A meal is likely to begin with oysters, which (like at the bar) are served in a small wooden boat. There’s also a raw-bar array, “The Kraken,” which features both fresh and broiled Hog Island oysters, five jumbo Gulf shrimp, tuna tartare, and mussels escabeche. Santos also has a masterful touch with crudos, and the knife techniques necessary for perfect slices of raw fish; a recent order of Hawaiian kampachi also featured Rainier cherries, nopales, and capers.
Anyone who’s worked at Atelier Crenn has learned how to cook a variety of fish par excellence, and Santos’ presentation of black cod — seared on the plancha on its skin side, achieving melting perfection on the flesh side, served with a simple fava bean salsa verde — is proof positive.
The Drink: The budget-friendly wine list ($60-$100) is solid, but you wouldn’t go wrong sticking exclusively to cocktails from bar master Larry Piaskowi (Rich Table, True Laurel), who’s deftly mixing riffs on martinis and other classics along with some new concoctions at the bar up front.
The Verdict: It’s thrilling to see a new, vibrant restaurant in such a storied place; it’s even better to see its occupant willing to take some creative risks. Maritime Boat Club is a great reason to stay in the area for dinner after an in-office workday, but also, is well worth a trip downtown on its own. –Jay Barmann
→ Maritime Boat Club (Union Square) • 417 Stockton St • Tue-Thu 530-9p, Fri-Sat 530-10p • Reserve.