BARS • First Round
The Skinny: An ultra-cool den off Union Square formerly home to cocktail bar Benjamin Cooper has found new life as Valley Club, a tucked-away spot from Mitch Lagneaux (Brass Tacks).
The Vibe: Behind an almost unmarked door at the Hotel G, Valley Club exudes sex appeal and a sense of clandestine, illicit fun. After a flight of stairs from Mason Street, you’re in a glam 1980s stage set, with channel glass windows, ultrasuede swivel barrel chairs, and mauve carpet. Glowing, circular chandelier fixtures add a futuristic touch, and Lagneaux’s background as a graphic designer and illustrator is put to great use on the elaborate, glossy cocktail menu. The website lists only two rules: “Be cool” and “Dress how you want to be remembered.”
The Drink: Valley Club’s selection of signature cocktails shows a keen sense of balance along with a sense of humor. The Midas Touch is a creamsicle-esque concoction of bourbon, Galliano, vanilla, orange, lemon, and egg white with a touch of gold leaf. The Nightvision, displayed on a two-page spread with a glowing silver cassette tape, features gin, peach Moscato, shiso, absinthe, and lemon. I opted for the Coconut Situation, a Rob Roy-like mix of Scotch, Meletti, amontillado sherry, coconut, and coffee liqueur.
The Verdict: An exciting rebirth for a space that’s been waiting for some love and attention — and a more-than-welcome addition to the pre- and post-theater cocktail scene. –Jay Barmann
→ Valley Club (Union Square) • 398 Geary St • Tue-Thu 6p-12a, Fri-Sat 6p-1a • Walk-ins only.