RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Rowdy trattoria Steps of Rome had a good run at 348 Columbus in North Beach until 2011. More than a decade later, the Florese family — also behind Mona Lisa, Mare e Monti, and Old Clam House — have acquired the brand, reviving it in a shiny new space only a block away.
The Vibe: You can’t miss the bright red awning and…