Pacific soul

Rooh (SoMa)

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

The Backstory: Eight years ago, some time after I moved to the Bay, I fell in love with fine dining Indian restaurants. At the time, Rooh in SoMa was an innovator in this niche — with its outside-of-the-box offerings and a cocktail menu shaped like a wheel of fortune, it dazzled — so of course, when one of my best friends came to visit, I took her there.

Fast forward to the present, as that friend has now moved to the Bay. It was only natural we’d go to Rooh to celebrate our reunion, though not necessarily a given that the restaurant would’ve remained top-notch over the years. But under Valice Francis (who stepped in to lead the kitchen a year ago), Rooh continues to deliver one of the most interesting dining experiences in SF.

The Experience: Outfitted with plush chairs and murals in intimate and dimly lit environs, it’s the dishes that light up the room. The chili crab, served with a mercifully soft and sweet bun, tingles on the tongue. The dahi puri, stuffed with yogurt mousse, are unlike any other pani puri I’ve had in the past. The paneer pinwheel, a classic that remains from the previous menu, still feels fresh.

And why shouldn’t a restaurant build a whole dessert around rose water-flavored tapioca pearls? After a couple of cocktails, we were plotting to return.

Why It’s FOUND: In the Bay Area’s dining scene, reliability and consistent excellence can be difficult to come by as time ages a city’s best spots. Either a restaurant breaks your heart by suddenly closing, or becomes mediocre, having run its course. Rooh, thankfully, seems determined to do neither. –Flora Tsapovsky

→ Rooh (SoMa) • 333 Brannan St • Mon-Thu 1130a-230p & 5-930p, Fri 1130a-230p & 530-10p, Sat 530-10p, Sun 5-930p • Reserve.