New layers

Ilna popping up at Buddy (Mission)

RESTAURANTS • Pop-Ups

The Backstory: One of the best meals I’ve eaten this year wasn’t at a hot new opening, it was at Ilna, a pleasant surprise of a pop-up. Founder Maz Naba was an opening partner at Rich Table, ran operations for Osito, Mister Jiu’s, and Moongate Lounge, and consulted on the openings for Nightbird and the Matheson. Now, he’s returned to his chef roots with a weekly Lebanese dinner, sporting a name that means “for us” in Arabic.

The Experience: Ilna has a regular residence on Sunday nights at Buddy, a cool natural wine bar in the Mission. Dishes are bright, beautiful, and layered, like tabouli salad with plump figs and crispy duck, cool cucumber soup with milky sweet raw scallops, creamy labneh topped with trout flakes and roe, or dried beef dumplings cloaked in yogurt and sprinkled with za’atar. He bakes his own breads to swipe through those spreads, including a squid ink black pita, puffed like a little pillow and tucked into a scarf. Naba also owns his own winery, Augur Wine Co., so he brings in some of his own bottles inspired by the Mediterranean (but grown in California).

Why It’s FOUND: Buddy seems to be an early tastemaker for wildly successful pop-ups gone permanent (see: the pizza at Jules, the squab at Four Kings). Let’s hope and trust Ilna will continue that trend, but for now, don’t miss the first bites. –Becky Duffett

→ Ilna popping up at Buddy (Mission) • 3115 22nd Street • Sun 430–830p • Reserve.