RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A forerunner of the Italian shared-plates trend, when Beretta first opened in 2008, it was the place to be in the Mission, drawing a late-night industry crowd from every corner of the city. After 17 years, owner Adriano Paganini shuttered the spot for a makeover, reopening in August with a revamped dining room and menu.
The Vibe: The restaurant’s new design is centered on Italian retro-futurism, with mod art and curvy-chaired two-tops. The red marble bar is lined with leather-bound stools, while the infamous communal table (a trend Beretta also trailblazed) is in its familiar place at the center of the room, beneath a bulbous Deco chandelier. High-top tables line the longest wall in the space beneath a mural, leading to a window-side nook around the corner of Valencia St and 23rd.
The Food: Chef Fredy Lopez’s menu features new spins on the restaurant’s longtime hits. Would it be Beretta without saffron risotto with ossobuco, crab arancini, or walnut toast with burrata and truffle honey? Inviting starters include zucchini scapece antipastini and cured meat boards with fried dough and sweet gorgonzola spread. Blistered, thin-crust pizzas include a mortadella white pie with creamy stracchino, pistachio, escarole, and garlic and wild funghi misti with fontina, taleggio, red onion, and thyme.
The Drink: As always, the cocktails here are served long. The vodka and pineapple-backboned Mojave Road Trip uses ancho verde and basil to earthy, spicy, and sweet effect. The no-frills Into The Sun has bourbon, cardamom, vanilla, and lemon — a classically approachable construction. Italian wine varietals range from Sardinia to Friuli, and a wide swath of amaro pairs well with panna gelato with extra-virgin olive oil and sea salt for dessert.
The Verdict: A reliable old haunt and a shiny new coat keeps a trailblazer’s great formula blessedly intact. –Adrian Spinelli
→ Beretta (Mission) • 1199 Valencia St • Mon-Thu 5-10p, Fri 5-1130p, Sat 11a-1130p, Sun 11a-10p • Reserve.
Photo: Michelle Min