RESTAURANTS • First Person
When Maybeck’s closed after less than a year in the Marina, it was gutting. But when Tiya took over and opened in May, revealing a wild new upscale Indian restaurant, those feelings were supplanted with this objectively good news — there simply aren’t enough ambitious Indian restaurants in San Francisco (or at least not the kind that don’t require a drive to the South Bay).
Tiya is the work of Sujan and Pujan Sarkar, brothers last seen in the kitchen of SoMa’s progressive Indian spot Rooh. But Tiya isn’t Rooh 2.0. It’s their own (and their first) joint venture, with Pujan in the kitchen after following seven years as head chef at Rooh. The brothers don’t want to focus on their native West Bengal or any particular region, but Indian/Californian cuisine, as rendered in their personal style.
Inside the restaurant, Maybeck’s horseshoe copper bar remains, but the dining room is now tricked out, featuring rich blues and greens, velvet chairs and booths, and tropical wallpaper teeming with parrots.
They’re serving a compelling, five-course tasting menu for $90. The lamb keema, slow-cooks until silky, gets topped with a poached egg, and surrounded with potato crispies. Butter chicken, possibly the best I’ve had, is rich and almost smoky. Pani puri and goat birria tacos are also excellent. There are vegetarian options for the tasting, as well as the option to order à la carte.
Cocktails climb through different neighborhoods in San Francisco, from the Mission District (tequila, salsa verde, nopales) to Japantown (whisky, strawberry, and sakura). There’s also a mini menu of gin and tonics with three fresh twists (Indian, Japanese, Spanish) and a smooth masala chai on nitro tap.
Serving maximalist design, smoke, and spice, Tiya is a hot opening that deserves the hype. –Becky Duffett
→ Tiya (Marina) • 3213 Scott St • Tues–Thurs 5–10p, Fri & Sat 5–11p • Reserve.
Photo: Neetu Laddha