Live fire

La Cigale, Inner Richmond dining, Nari, Rintaro, The Inn at Schoolhouse Creek, Noise Pop tix, MORE

WORK • Wednesday Routine

Fly away

KIM ALTER • chef and owner • Nightbird
Neighborhood you work in: Hayes Valley
Neighborhood you live in: Excelsior District

It’s Wednesday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
I’m always running late to get to Nightbird since Helen, my squab farmer, is typically early on her drop-off; it just works out that way every week. Then, with the kitchen all to myself, I’m running around to start all the things for service. I don’t have a sous chef right now, so I’m doing the job of what would be three people, including starting the bread, pastries, and all the sauces. I try to answer emails while doing this, listen to music to motivate me, and just be alone. It is so rare for me to have any privacy, so I enjoy the calmness of the kitchen before it gets hectic and chaotic.

What’s on the agenda for today?
Right this second, I am working on some special events we are working on for our 10-year anniversary at Nightbird! I’m hoping to get prep done on the earlier side so I can go home, sit in the sauna, and listen to a podcast.

Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
Nightbird is closed Sunday and Monday, like most restaurants in SF, so there are a handful that we go to, mainly Nari and Rintaro. If I’m lucky to have a mid-week day off, Octavia or Rich Table is always a great meal. We have been closed this week for our winter break so we definitely cooked a lot at home and are hoping to snag a reservation at Sons & Daughters.

How about a little leisure or culture?
A perfect day off would involve waking up after 8a and having a cup of coffee in my home, in a ceramic mug. Then, I’ll probably take a drive in my car — I have a 1970 Mini Cooper and I love driving her around the city. I like to hit flea markets and record stores and maybe have a little wine; big fan of shopping tipsy, but at that point, no more driving. I definitely would meet up at the Lone Palm with some friends for a martini, then maybe a punk show at one of the few venues left in the city.

Any weekend getaways?
If I’m getting away, it’s either Mendocino or Bodega Bay. I love driving along the coast: the fog, the trees, not so much the windy roads, but it is part of it. We always stay at a bed and breakfast, normally bringing cheese and champagne. We like The Inn at Schoolhouse Creek, which is kind of old-school but set between towns, and you can hike or just walk the grounds, light a fire, and, because I like to travel in the winter, listen to the rain.

What was your last great vacation?
France was memorable. La Madeleine-sous-Montreuil was such a small town that the hotel’s receptionist came and picked us up in her own car. We specifically stayed at La Grenouillère for the meal, taking the train from Paris and spending two nights there. The rooms were magical, and we ate at the restaurant both nights, where they made two totally different menus for us. We also went to their casual restaurant, Froggy’s Tavern, during the day and just walked around the most picturesque town.

What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
Recently, I’ve been treating myself to jewelry from Rose Gold’s, as well as some needed pieces for my wardrobe from MAC Modern Appealing Clothing. If we’re talking about food-related items, I did splurge on a knife from Bernal Cutlery.

What store or service do you always recommend?
I love Omnivore Books and Bernal Cutlery.

Where are you donating your time or money?
Always No Kid Hungry, World Central Kitchen, and Foodwise, which champions an equitable and sustainable Bay Area food community through farmers markets and education programs.

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RESTAURANTS • First Word

Old flame

The Skinny: The newest French spot in the village of Glen Park, La Cigale is the brainchild of chef Joseph Magidow (Delfina, Tawla) and his wife Daisy Linden. Its wood-burning grill fired up at the start of fall, serving 15 seats twice per night from a daily, scribbled menu of dishes cooked over live fire. It’s gotten some heat for its seating policy, and neighbors have complained about the restaurant’s wafting smoke. But if you love rustic French fare, it’s an illuminating experience.