RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: At the Hotel Bijou, the former Gibson space has been revived by Ciaorigato, a restaurant owing its portmanteau of a name to its aim of fusing Italian and Japanese cuisine. Owner Dario Nicotra and executive chef Marco Avila are also behind another fusion spot, Modi, the Italian-Mexican spot that debuted last year at Salesforce Transit Center.
The Vibe: The well-appointed, high-ceilinged space off the hotel’s lobby has taken a dramatic turn, with moody purple up-lighting, an Italianate ceiling mural, and blue leather banquettes. The bar area is sexy and sleek, perhaps aiming to give this Tenderloin-adjacent spot the air of an after-work cocktail destination in Milan. (The TV at the end of the bar may shatter the illusion, depending on what’s on.)
The Food: Italian and Japanese cooking techniques already overlap a lot, especially when it comes to simple treatments of fish and meats. The “Itameshi Appetizers” section of the menu offers some examples: Tempura dovetails easily with fritto misto in the Tempura Misto Mediterraneo, featuring tempura-battered vegetables alongside fried squid and shrimp, with ‘nduja aioli. And the Focacciapan brilliantly marries focaccia with Japanese milk bread.
Purists may balk, shudder, and scoff, but the Italian riffs on sushi — like a roll featuring tuna, tempura zucchini, and basil pesto — actually work. Same for pizza that melds an okonomiyaki pancake with a quattro formaggi pie. A simple hanger steak, topped in togarashi-yuzu butter: also an easy winner, as is the killer wagyu Tokyo Burger Toscano, featuring smoky scamorza for the cheese.
The Drink: Local bar star Ramon Piñon has fashioned a menu that celebrates Italian and Japanese products without being too heavy-handed. A Yuzu Spritz brings together yuzu, yuzu liqueur, and prosecco. There are also classics on offer, like a white Negroni and an espresso martini. A concise selection of highballs, sakes, and Italian wines round things out.
The Verdict: A treacherous endeavor, to be sure, but done right, marrying two complementary cuisines like Italian and Japanese can yield delights, as is the case here. Ciaorigato is an inviting spot downtown pushing the envelope without exceeding the limits of good taste. –Jay Barmann
→ Ciaorigato (Tenderloin) • 111 Mason St • Daily 5-10p • Reserve.