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WORK • Friday Routine
Wide awake
RYAN SHELTON • executive chef & owner • Merchant Roots, Bar Orso & The Roost
Neighborhood you work in: SoMa
It’s Friday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
It’s 915a. I’ve dropped my son Ellory off at daycare, and I’m first at the restaurant. It’s empty and quiet, and typically I have an hour or two of peace to figure out how much of a dent I can make in my to-do list. On some lucky days, I have 21 burners, six ovens, a smoker, grill, fryer, liquid nitrogen, freeze dryers, charcuterie curing fridge, force carbonator, vapor distiller, and rotary evaporator all to myself to play with and figure out an ongoing cooking project that requires some extra focus. Merchant Roots is a quarterly rotating and themed tasting menu, so our R&D period is constant.
What’s on the agenda for today?
My current project is perfecting our new seasonal cocktail for our speakeasy Bar Orso (intel). We have a lot of tomato-based ideas that we can’t decide between, so we’re going to make it a trio of mini cocktails (why not?): a tomato water “up” drink, a roasted tomato-infused rye on the rocks, and a Bloody Mary-style sipper. It’s listed as an à la carte flight we affectionately call the Toma-trio.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
My wife Megan has her sights on nabbing a reservation at Enclos (intel) in Sonoma. She’s a master planner, and I look forward to her imminent success! I’ve heard nothing but amazing things and I’m so excited to experience everything for myself.
How about a little leisure or culture?
This weekend the family is headed to PayPal Park to watch a Bay FC women’s soccer game vs North Carolina. My son is starting to understand sports a bit, and we’re looking forward to watching a live game. Knowing him, I’m sure he’ll be most excited about the hot dogs and nachos.
Any weekend getaways?
Haven’t done one of these in a while, but the most recent was a family trip to San Diego. The Little Italy Mercato farmers market was really lively and full of super unique offerings from craft producers. We didn’t eat anything there that wasn’t absolutely delicious. The fish tacos at Fish Guts are the best I’ve ever had.
What was your last great vacation?
Costa Rica. It’s probably the most vacation-able place on Earth, for lack of a better word. It feels like such a unique corner of the world where jungle meets Caribbean meets Pacific islands, volcanoes, and beaches. The comfort of civilization is everywhere, but you’re always adjacent to an incredibly beautiful, wild world. The Chira Glamping Hotel in Monteverde, high in the cloud forests, is such a luxurious place, and though we didn’t stay there, we dined in their restaurant. The San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience is very well-named, and we enjoyed a tasting menu there that brought us to every corner of Costa Rica. Cucumber soursop ceviche blew my mind.
What store or service do you always recommend?
Turquaz is a Turkish café right by Merchant Roots. Somehow, they manage to have a huge selection of satisfying traditional Turkish dishes, an ocean of beautifully made pastries, more types of Turkish delight than I’ve ever seen, tea cookies, amazing Turkish coffee service. It’s a super cute space, the staff all seem really proud of what they are offering, and it’s a beautiful gem that I’m excited to share a neighborhood with.
Where are you donating your time or money?
Each quarter, a Merchant Roots employee gets to select a charity, and $6 from every meal we serve is donated to their selected nonprofit organization. For our summer season we’re donating to DISH (Delivering Innovation in Supportive Housing). They provide high-quality, permanent housing to San Franciscans who suffer from serious health issues. We’ve been proud in the past to donate to Save the Redwoods League, as well as La Cocina.
GOODS & SERVICES LINKS: Kith plans Union Square outpost • After 50 years, Buffalo Whole Foods Market shuts down in the Castro • Teens’ hoodie collections are out of control.
GETAWAYS • Sonoma
Pack behavior
The Skinny: Opened last year, Wolves Lovers + Thieves is the second Glen Ellen tasting room from winemakers Lindsey Blanchard and Ryan Kuhlmann, who debuted their popular Wine Snob in the small Sonoma town about five years ago. Their new spot leans on patron-chosen vinyl, and serves sparkling wine only.
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three homes that came to market in Berkeley in the last 30 days.
→ 1010 Keeler Ave (Cragmont) • 4BR/3BA • 2342 SF • Ask: $1.225M • 1957 build, first time to market in 60+ years • Days on market: 9 • Agent: Anna Bellomo, District Homes.
→ 2388 Vine St (North Berkeley) • 4BR/2.2BA • 2499 SF • Ask: $1.995M •Euro-style 1926 build w/ Golden Gate Bridge and Bay views • Days on market: 9 • Agent: Alexis Thompson, Village Asc.
→ 8 Maybeck Twin Dr (Northside, above) • 4BR/4BA • 3643 SF • Ask: $2.895M • California modern w/ wraparound terrace, patio atrium • Days on market: 9 • Agent: David Gunderman, KW Advisors East Bay.
REAL ESTATE LINKS: SF housing market boom spreads to Oakland • How a development group’s buying spree will change the face of Union Square • Atherton might soon see its first-ever multi-unit housing development.
RESTAURANTS •The Nines
Dining, FiDi
Our 9 favorite restaurants in the neighborhood. Paid subscribers have access to the complete Nines archive.
Crustacean (Pine St), swanky Vietnamese from the famed An family, intel, reserve