Hillside angler

Precita Social (Bernal Heights)

RESTAURANTS • First Round

The Skinny: Opened on the North Slope in August, Precita Social is a laidback bistro from chef Greg Lutes, who spent over a decade at Bernal Heights tasting menu spot 3rd Cousin.

The Vibe: The location at the bottom corner of a beautiful old Edwardian is the scene of some controversy — this was the former Marlena space, before an ownership dispute prompted its closure. Precita Social kept Marlena’s moody blue paint job and warm wooden floors, as well as its bar and banquettes. Strolling in early on a weeknight, the room was deliciously quiet, and it felt almost too easy to filter into a front window seat.

The Food: Hits all the requisites of a neighborhood bistro, like a wagyu cheeseburger and little gem salad tossed with anchovies. But Lutes says he’s pulling inspiration from France, Italy, and Japan, and he’s clearly having fun with uni hand rolls, disco fries, stuffed pastas, and sizzling rice. The steal is the steak frites for $39.95, serving tender and juicy wagyu bavette with nice thick chips. Criminally, they came with ketchup, but horseradish aioli is available on request.

The Drink: As at 3rd Cousin, the wine list is on point, and I couldn’t resist a second glass of citrusy Assyrtiko. There are several cool bottles of sake and plenty of nonalcoholic options, and my friend happily sipped on a Meyer lemon and ginger spritz.

The Verdict: Precita Social satisfies the neighborhood bistro craving and is worth crossing town for those frites. –Becky Duffett

→ Precita Social (Bernal Heights) • 300 Precita Ave • Wed-Thu 5-9p, Fri-Sat 5-10p, Sun 5-9p • Reserve.