Good deeds

Super Mensch (Marina)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The latest bar and restaurant from chef Adam Rosenblum and bartender Elmer Mejicanos, who made their name with classic Marina burger spot Causwells, is Super Mensch. They initially opened the lovely low-ABV spot Lilah in the space next door last year, but after scoring a full liquor license, they flipped it into this retro venue inspired by Jewish delis.

The Vibe: Lilah’s jungle green and animal wallpaper has been scrubbed in favor of a retro-classic blue and cream. There are a few bistro tables out front and cozy booths inside, with tall stools lining the window and bar. A marquee advertises specials, and a window peeks into the tiny kitchen.

The Food: I liked the latkes cut into crisp slabs, and respect the effort on a housemade bagel and lox. But the pastrami on rye was the best I’ve ever tasted in SF, cured and smoked until succulent, thickly sliced, and stacked. A “giant slice” of blackout devil’s food chocolate cake ends the meal.

The Drink: Haven’t you always wanted to drink matzah ball soup in margarita form? It comes with a schmaltz cracker cut in the shape of a chicken. Other cocktails riff on egg creams, celery sodas, and pickle martinis.

The Verdict: While no one’s arguing that SF can compete with the great Jewish delis of NYC and LA, Super Mensch is making an excellent play for the local crown seeking a hot date (with a Reuben). –Becky Duffett

→ Super Mensch (Marina) • 2336 Chestnut St • Tue-Thu 11a-3p & 5-9p, Fri 11a-3p & 5-10p, Sat 10a-3p & 5-10p, Sun 10a-3p & 5-9p • Walk-ins only.