BARS • First Round
The Skinny: The splashiest opening this spring on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland might also be the Frenchiest French wine bar to open around the Bay in some time. La Loulou, which opened in May, is the first restaurant venture from French wine industry veteran Lou Beraud, who decided to bring her take on the classic Parisian bouillon to the Bay Area.
The Vibe: Not your trendy local natural wine spot. La Loulou evokes a distinctly Parisian aesthetic, from the dark green leather banquettes, to the Art Nouveau mirrors, to the whimsical feathers adorning chandeliers that could have come straight from the Moulin Rouge kick-line. It’s a counter-ordering situation, with indoor seats (including one that swings near the front window) and abundant sidewalk tables.
The Drink: Unusual bottle selections dominate the list. By the glass you can enjoy a crisp Raffaitin-Planchon Sancerre from the Loire Valley or a rich Carignan from Mada in the Languedoc. A few selections from Italy, Germany, and California find their way onto the ever-changing glass list and expanding bottle list — currently about 150 strong. Bottles are available for retail sale as well.
The Food: While you can have a full, light meal at La Loulou, the food is mostly there to complement the wines. A hearty sandwich of melty raclette and salty French ham on a crunchy baguette makes for a great late lunch, along with some excellent, herb-marinated warm olives. (Vegetarians be warned, it is billed just as a “raclette sandwich” on the small chalkboard menu.) Thoughtfully plated cheese, charcuterie boards, and escargot are on offer as well.
The Verdict: Amid the current wave of minimal-intervention wine bars, La Loulou is a more mature option in the East Bay. –Jay Barmann
→ La Loulou (Oakland) • 4250 Piedmont Ave • Wed-Thu & Sun 2-930p, Fri-Sat 2-10p • Walk-ins only.