Fowl play

Quack House (Tenderloin)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Brothers Eric and Simon Cheung closed their iconic Hing Lung Company in Chinatown last spring, but returned with Go Duck Yourself in Bernal Heights soon after, bringing their legendary Cantonese roast duck to a new generation and service style. They’ve just expanded with Quack House, which opened last month in the historic Beaux Arts building last home to Stanlee Gatti’s Meraki Market.

The Vibe: Gatti took two years to renovate the Quack House’s hundred-year-old structure, painstakingly restoring its beams, plaster cherubs, and arched windows. Its latest tenants haven’t done much to change the former upscale retail space, which boasts lofty ceilings, warm exposed brick, and marble floors.

The Food: Walk in and order from an iPad, or chat with staff for recommendations. Obviously, you’re here for the duck, famously stuffed with aromatics, dry-aged for four days, and cleaver chopped, but the crispy pork belly, char siu, and ribs all have devoted fans, too. They’re all available either by the pound or tucked into a box with jasmine rice, garlicky greens, and sweet and savory sauces.

The Verdict: A fantastic new addition to the Tenderloin’s stable of lo-fi-high-impact eateries and a new first-ballot answer for scratching the Chinese BBQ itch, from a team with plenty of experience doing so already. Keep your eye on the apps: They’re firing up delivery, so sometime soon, expect these ducks to be flying all over town. –Becky Duffett

→ Quack House (Tenderloin) • 927 Post St • Mon, Wed, Sat-Sun 11a-8p, Thu 11-5p.