RESTAURANTS • Fine Dining Report
Separate peace
San Francisco staple Lazy Bear delivered one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had recently. Once known for its communal-style dining, chef David Barzelay’s acclaimed restaurant has since ditched the format — the change I needed to finally check it off my list.
The restaurant strikes a delightful balance, walking a fine line between casual warmth and the precision expected of fine dining. The hospitality is second to none, and the team’s energy radiates through the meal.
It opened with two signature tone-setting dishes. First, whipped scrambled eggs served in their shell with bacon, maple, and hot sauce, so good, I’d gladly queue for breakfast just to have them again. Then, a whimsical homage to Fisherman’s Wharf in the form of a miniature sourdough bread bowl filled with Manila clam chowder, crowned with Lazy Bear Reserve Caviar.
Weeks later, I still find myself talking about the lamb course. The first round is a dry-aged ribeye accented by tomato water caramel, black garlic, and Jimmy Nardello pepper. But it was the Dad Chops that left a lasting impression. Inspired by the image of a dad at the grill, these chops were glazed with a blueberry barbecue sauce layered with syrah, black garlic, and Douglas fir. Eaten by hand, they captured the spirit of backyard cooking through the crystalline lens of fine-dining at its most fun. –Lee Pitofsky
→ Lazy Bear (Mission) • 3416 19th St • Tue-Sat 5-11p • Tasting menu $295 per • Reserve.
RESTAURANTS • First Word
Florida man
The Skinny: As much club as restaurant, Ama — Miami chef Brad Kilgore’s second spot at the recently revamped Transamerica complex — is destined to be the latest swanky afterwork option for the vibe-seeking FiDi set.