RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: As much club as restaurant, Ama — Miami chef Brad Kilgore’s second spot at the recently revamped Transamerica complex — is destined to be the latest swanky afterwork option for the vibe-seeking FiDi set.
The Vibe: Sexy, golden-lit, semi-secret. Ama has been billed as Kilgore’s entry into the San Francisco fine-dining scene, but the space reads less “food destination,” more “bar-lounge low-key party spot.” An 18-seat dining area is located in the moody front Copper Room, which also houses the bar. Through a doorway is a plush, golden-hued, couch-lined lounge billed as Ama Social Club, which also has a pinball machine and DJ booth (cell phone use, discouraged). Tucked in the back, a small second dining area with booths.
The Drink: Innovative cocktails and a deep collection of Japanese whiskey anchor Ama’s bar menu, alongside an Italian-heavy wine list. A whiskey sour variation takes a turn toward Japan with mushroom-infused bourbon, mirin, and black peppercorn syrup. And a twist on a Negroni replaces gin with shochu and features cherry blossom-infused Campari.
The Food: The food marries Japanese and Italian influences, with a focus on elegant cocktail bites and luxury indulgences (to impress clients, perhaps). Squid-ink-black arancini filled with tamari, mushroom, and creamy risotto get draped in a disc of umami-rich dashi gelatin. A soft egg dish that Kilgore became known for at MaryGold’s in Miami is served with bruleed sea scallop, Gruyère foam, and caviar on top.
Pasta options include lumache with vodka sauce and a mix of Calabrian and Japanese chilis, and a custard-covered risotto made with prosciutto broth. Vegetables and meats come delicately grilled on a binchotan grill. A decidedly baller lounge menu will be available after hours, featuring shareable dishes like whole, dry-aged veal chop parmigiana, and an oversized Wagyu meatball with caramelized parmesan fondue.
The Verdict: For those seeking some scene with dinner, or focused on closing a deal over drinks with luxe small plates, Ama fills a void in the muted downtown space. –Jay Barmann
→ Ama (FiDi) • 545 Sansome St • Tue-Thu 530-930p, Fri-Sat 530-1030p • Ama Social Club open until 1130p Tue-Thu, 1230a Fri-Sat • Reserve.