RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Newly open in Hayes Valley is two-year-old pop-up turned fine-dining spot The Happy Crane — the first solo venture by former Benu chef James Yeun Leong Parry — serving upscale, modern dim sum and Cantonese cuisine.
The Vibe: The chic, glass-enclosed space previously home to Monsieur Benjamin for a decade, has been given a light remodel. At the entrance, a round, peek-a-boo window lined in walnut creates separation from the central bar area. The two main seating areas are accented with green tile. It’s a lively spot with a relaxed, civilized feel. The staff’s fine-dining training is evident.
The Food: With a career spanning Hong Kong’s dining scene to a role as chef de cuisine at Palette Tea House, Parry’s dim sum cred is real. He’s taken traditional dishes like fried whole shrimp and crab rice rolls and refined them with careful technique and exquisite ingredients. He enjoys celebrating humble ingredients and humble dishes, like the very delicious golden coin, dressed up slightly here with chicken liver on bao buns and topped with thin-sliced coppa.
A beautifully roasted and crisped five-spice quail and the perfectly cooked “fish fragrant fish” with braised celtuce are stars of the opening menu, but at some point soon, the kitchen’s newly installed duck oven will be roasting Parry’s signature Peking-style duck.
The Drink: A concise list of house cocktails includes some food-friendly originals like the Happy Crane gimlet made with gin, sakura tea, tangerine peel bitters, a very tart cordial of Japanese citrus (kabosu and sudachi), and a misting of absinthe. The Under Red Lanterns is a grown-up pina colada made with red bean-yuzu vodka, macadamia, pineapple, coconut cream, and lime. And the high-end wine list includes some French bottles appropriate for the Monsieur Benjamin cellar.
FOUND Pro: The restaurant is already booked solid, so try your best at midnight 30 days out. Also N.B.: “Due to the high demand, we do not anticipate being able to accommodate walk-ins over the next few weeks. If you're hoping to join us, we highly recommend making a reservation in advance.”
The Verdict: The Happy Crane is a shoo-in for one of San Francisco’s best new restaurants of the year. –Jay Barmann
→ The Happy Crane (Hayes Valley) • 451 Gough St • Tue-Sat 5p-9p • Reserve.