Cool noodles

Sora Soba Dining (Japantown)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Opened last month, Sora Soba Dining is the first US soba spot from Hinodeya Ramen Bar, a much-hyped chain that dates back to 1885. The brand, which began in a Japanese train station in 1885, is already drawing big crowds to Japantown for its buzzy buckwheat noodles.

The Vibe: Sora sits next door to Hinodeya, in the plaza above the pagoda. The line runs long: even in a steady drizzle of rain, it was a solid hour’s wait at . But once you’re finally in the door, the team beats a ceremonial drum, and a chorus of cooks greets you in Japanese. The modern dining room glows with pale wooden lattices and parchment light fixtures. By the time we left, the line had died down — so maybe attempt it in later in the day.

The Food: You’re here for the 100-percent-buckwheat soba, cut square and slender, served cold or hot. It shines especially when served chilled on a woven bamboo plate, with thinly sliced leeks, wasabi powder, and creamy sesame sauce. The menu includes comic strip instructions for how to eat them: season, dip, slurp. We also warmed up with hot duck soup, silky fresh tofu, and delightful tempura of brussels sprouts and teeny tiny scallops. The real treat is a small teapot of soba-yu, leftover cooking water served at the end of the meal. Poured into any remaining dipping sauce, it creates a starchy, restorative soup.

The Drink: Japanese beer, California wine, and assorted sake. Zero-proof options are yuzu soda, ume soda, and hot or cold green tea.

The Verdict:While it’s not your dearly loved fatty pork broth or salty izakaya snacks, for clean, light flavors, you won’t find a more pure, transcendent noodle experience. –Becky Duffett

→ Sora Soba Dining (Japantown) • 1731 Buchanan St • 11a-230p, 530-9p • Walk-ins only.