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Bar Bibi (Nob Hill)

BARS • First Round

The Skinny: Bahman Safari’s wine-focused pop-up Habibi Bar has gone permanent at Bar Bibi, opened in August in the Nob Hill space once home to Ristorante Milano. He’s also expanded the menu’s offerings, with a full food program that makes this new venture more cave à manger than traditional wine bar.

The Vibe: It’s a very casual, cozy, no-reservation, counter-service operation, between the bustling corridors of Polk and Hyde streets. Open weekdays at 430p and weekends at 3p, the mid-block spot works as a great casual hang before dinner, a first date spot, or a place to get some work done with a glass of rosé.

The Drink: Safari’s excellent taste is evident in the glass selections, which include pours like an Ostatu white blend from Rioja featuring Viura and Malvasia grapes, and the rich red (GSM) blend from Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac, from upstart vineyard Mas des Brousses. Bubbles selections including Lelarge Pugeot’s “Tradition” Brut Champagne and a 2019 Pere Mata ‘L’Origen’ reserve brut cava. A handful of beers are also available (including Alvarado Street’s Mai Tai IPA) as well as n/a options.

The Food: Smaller plates include charred broccolini topped with peanut sauce and some gloriously messy (and sticky) grilled shell-on prawns, coated in garlic-chile butter and served with Bernal Basket toast. A dish of brothy butter beans with pancetta warms on a cold fall or winter night. The menu also offers a half brick chicken, plus two pastas — an Amatriciana, and, in a nod to Ristorante Milano, tonnarelli vongole with Manila clams.

The Verdict: A new, chill wine spot with an unexpectedly robust food lineup for Nob Hill and Polk Street denizens. –Jay Barmann

→ Bar Bibi (Nob Hill) • 1448 Pacific Ave • Mon 430-10p, Wed-Fri 430-11p, Sat-Sun 3-10p • Walk-ins only.