Biodynamic & brachycephalic
Frenchie Wine Bar (Mission)
BARS • First Round
The Skinny: The French bulldog is the most popular dog breed in San Francisco. These short kings inspired Frenchie, a dog-friendly wine bar just over the hill from Dolores Park. It’s the first solo project from sommelier Joel Arias, who spent years at La Mar building his credentials with that spot’s biodynamic wines and Peruvian snacks, produced faithfully here.
The Vibe: Walking in on a recent weeknight, I saw no fewer than three pooches lounging in laps and under chairs. The tall, skinny space features sage green, natural wood, and marble table tops, along with abstract paintings and a big bubble chandelier. We pulled up to a high table, but one could get comfy on a crushed velvet banquette. Dolcetto, the resident bulldog named after a grape variety, has his own table by the bar.
The Drink: Arias has long been obsessed with natural and organic farming methods, as guided by the cycles of the moon — and that focus informs the menu, which is billed as fully biodynamic. It spans bubbles, the expected whites and reds, as well as rose and a couple orange. We started with a glass of Champagne that tasted of toasted brioche, before exploring his personal recommendations across France, Italy, and California. Also on the menu are a few canned beers and a low-ABV cocktail called the Sangri-ish, made with 16 Byrrh, tempranillo, and blueberry sage tarragon syrup.
The Food: Wine bar essentials like cheese and charcuterie boards are available, but Arias is originally from Peru, as can be determined from the more compelling of the small plates. The Tiradito Nikkei treats local fish like sashimi, dressed in yuzu leche de tigre, while the Torta de Lomo Saltado turns the iconic Peruvian stir-fry into a steak sandwich with jus for dipping.
The Verdict: A French bulldog will get plenty of fans through the door, but the warm service from Arias and his wife should encourage them to linger. If the only thing you love more than a glass of wine is drinking it with a cute pup, welcome home. –Becky Duffett
→ Frenchie Wine Bar (Mission) • 1007 Guerrero St • Wed-Thu 5-930p, Fri-Sat 5-10p, Sun 2-7p • Walk-ins only.