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Tur (West Portal)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: The closure in January of Squat and Gobble — arguably the most popular brunch and lunch spot in West Portal for the last 32 years — left a void in the sleepy neighborhood. Five months later, Tur swung open in its place: a restaurant with similar daytime service hours to S&G, but a decidedly different menu. Instead of the standard scrambles, Tur’s menu features breakfast and lunch offerings inspired by what owners Arkaranit Dusitnitsakul and Wipada Rattanapun enjoyed as kids in Thailand. Is the change-averse neighborhood ready for seven kinds of jook at 8a?
The Vibe: If Dusitnitsakul and Rattanapun were “outsiders” (that’s what West Portal folks call the rest of us, don’t shoot the messenger) the answer to the above question might be “no.” But the couple opened Khao Tiew in 2024, a dinner spot that amassed raves as one of the city’s best Thai restaurants, while still managing to prioritize regulars and locals. That banked goodwill spurred the area’s crew of comfortable, older residents to pack Tur since it opened mid-May, thrilled that a walking-distance weekday breakfast is back. And the space is definitely spiffed up since S&G departed, now freshly white, wicker, and wood. It’s an airy, unpretentious upgrade.
The Food: Chef Varunthorn Ratanakachain developed brunch creds after five years at Saratoga’s Asian brunch spot Darla Café, experience showing in a menu that’s compact while still hitting all the most crucial sweet and savory daytime dining notes. Honey walnut shrimp and waffles, served with honey sauce, tobiko, and lemon is a smart twist on the fried classic, while the congee offerings feel a natural fit for the first meal of the day. For lunch, seek out the Caribbean pasta, made with squid-ink spaghetti and dried chiles; it’s savory, and just acidic enough.
The Drink: Coffee is made with Counter Culture beans, and drinks go beyond the usual espresso or latte. The Talay is a whole production: butterfly pea tea and coconut milk with a shot of espresso added as part of the show. There’s also a short list of local beers on draft, pandan milk (on the menu, called Not A Matcha) and freshly squeezed orange juice.
The Verdict: In other hands, a lot of Tur’s menu could feel gimmicky, but the combination of Dusitnitsakul, Rattanapun, and Ratanakachain give its offerings a level of accessible (and inspiring) ease. A good weekday breakfast is hard enough to find in San Francisco, a great one even harder, so what a joy to have Tur fill that gap. And if you decide to go on the weekend, there will be an imposing line, but the wait will be worth it. –Eve Batey
→ Tur (West Portal) • 1 West Portal Ave • Wed-Mon 8a-2p • Walk-ins only.